![]() You don't always have to replace your kitchen countertops to get an attractive result that has the beauty and elegance of genuine granite. Buyer’s Granite Counter Top Guide about installing, sealing & cleaning, granite tile countertops, kitchen design, santa cecilia, uba tuba, black galaxy, outdoor kitchen. The benefit of snatching a handful of hours over the last week to cut, lay, and grout tile on my basement floor, is that I can now share with you the deep, dark. ![]() Inspiration and DIY Update Your Backyard Oasis: Pool Tile and Other Trends. Tile 1. 01: How to Build & Tile Counters. Granite sounds all well and good until you hear $3. I’ve tiled almost every counter I’ve come across for the last 5 years– kitchen, bathroom, laundry room– you name it. A couple of sheets of MDF and some tile, you’ve got something that looks better than Corian or laminate for a fraction of the price. Check it out…2″ blue tile from Lowes for less than $2 per square foot. The entire kitchen counters and backsplash cost around $2. Still considerably cheaper than high- end materials. And these 1. 8×2. What I’m saying here is that the possibilities are endless, and not that expensive– particularly if you’re willing to get your hands a little dirty. Let’s have some fun, shall we? What you need to build counters for tile: Something to set it on, like a cabinet, or legs. MDF or plywood, doubled up. Various saws (if you need a sink hole, you’ll need a jigsaw, otherwise a tablesaw will do- or have them cut it at the lumber yard)Drill. Screws. What you need to tile counters: Tile. Tile adhesive. Grout. Notched trowel. Grout float. Tile saw or tile nipper (depending on the size of your tile)Buckets. Sponge or rag. Grout sealer. I’m going to take you through building the counter, and then some differences between those itty- bitty tile and the big 2. And just in case you can’t get enough of tile, here’s how to tile floors, and here’s how to tile walls.) Some days I never want to see a tile again, if you can imagine that, but luckily that day is not today. Building Counters for Tile People might say things about fibercement board and blah, blah, blah. Do it if you want but really all you need make a counter fit for tilin’ is a couple of pieces of MDF. I’m in the midwest and I’ve never had an issue with shrinkage or grout cracks, but to each her own. Start with a cabinet of some sort, or table legs that need a top, or an old door you want to turn into a desk, or whatever. We’re not fussy here. I always get my MDF cut in half lengthwise at the lumberyard if I’m going to make a counter out of it. I trim it up at home, but it’s easier to fit in the SUV that way. Standard counter depth is 2. I say “ish” because if you’re building them you can fudge it an inch or so to keep from needed to cut as many tile. Counters overhang 1/2″- 1″ in the front. I tend to make up for this by sticking a 3/4″ piece around 6″ wide behind the counter to create the backsplash. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves… these are just things to keep in mind as you’re cutting your MDF. Step 1: Cutting. For a sink- base, cut the MDF to length, then use the template that came with the sink to cut out the hole. A drill gets the big hole started…And a jigsaw keeps it going…Once the first hole is cut, I test to make sure the sink fits and that I don’t need to make any adjustments before tracing and cutting the second piece. And then the dry fit…Perfecto! Step 2: Installing. In my case I needed to cut access holes into the back of the cabinet and install it before attaching the counter. Which meant a lot of contorting myself into tiny little spaces. The counter is attached with screws through these plastic brackets. Which are extra fun to reach…Installed counter with sink dry- fit. Pretty easy, huh? Tiling Counters. Step 1: Lay ‘em Out. I’m not saying with smaller tiles the layout is less important… okay, actually, yes, that’s exactly what I’m saying. But it’s still important. Check out this post on installing wall tile for more detailed information on layout out small tiles.)With larger tiles it’s particularly important to check out where your grout lines will fall, and how your tiles should be spaced. In any application, the tiles should be centered — don’t just start at one end and then cut the tile at the other end. Your whole life will look lopsided like that… trust me. With large tiles I wanted the smallest grout lines possible, so I laid the tile out with with 1/8″ spacers. To minimize cuts, I used 1. Step 2: Stick ‘em Down Tile adhesive should be chosen based on the size and type of tile being used. While the adhesive I used was for up to 1. I felt comfortable using it since it’s not often my counters receive high foot- traffic. For small mosaic tile, I ditched the notched trowel and just spread on as thin of a layer of adhesive as I possibly could. Like, paper thin. For the larger tile, I used a 1/4″ notched trowel to spread on the adhesive. In this case I chose to do the backsplash first…And here’s the adhesive for the big tiles. I put the adhesive on a couple of tiles in advance, then lay them, then spread a little more adhesive. Just in case I run into something unforseen. Here is how the 4″ backsplash tile went on. Push in and give it a little wiggle to make sure it’s firmly adhered. In this case I shimmed the tiles just a bit to keep them level with the top of the backsplash. Then the counter tile went on, one extra- large tile at a time. I tend to put the whole tiles in first, and then do all my cuts at once. I hear people who really know what they’re doing cut as they go… but as usual, I choose to do my own thing. More on cutting in a minute). For the mosaic tile, it was all about cutting the 1. In this case it was lucky that two whole tiles covered the lip of the counter without any tile- snipping. Step 3: Snipping, Sawing, Snapping There really are so many different ways to cut your tiles down to the right size. Here’s a few that work for me in different situations. For small glass or ceramic mosaic tile, tile nippers are your best bet. And no, I don’t make up the word “nipper” for a laugh, swear to god, that’s the technical term for them. Nip where appropriate, and voila! Tile is all in place. The larger tile are quicker to lay, yes, but the cutting stage is where you have to spend a little more time with them. To get the rounded sink hole opening in 2. I started by tracing the overlap. Then used the wet saw to notch the area that was being removed. To ensure none of the little pieces went rogue when I snapped them off, I started by scoring my traced line with a utility knife. Then grabbing a hold of those babies with the nippers and giving them a good yank. And after a dry fit, you can see that took care of the sink hole. There were still tiles to cut for the top of the backsplash and the lip of the counter, however, and I found that with the type of finish on the ceramic tile, the wet saw was tearing the edge up. While I prefer the wet saw for control, a score- and- snap style cutter was a better choice for keeping a clean edge on these pieces. The “cut” is not a straight, but the overall effect was way better. See? Step 4: Filling in the Cracks This is the part where you get to play with mud. Fun! Grouting is actually a big old mess, but fairly easy. There are a number of different types of grout — sanded, unsanded, colored– I’m a traditionalist and almost always use sanded grout, because I like it. For sanded grout, mix according to package directions. I never measure, but I’m sure that’s a bad habit. Once it’s about at the consistency of toothpaste, you’re good to go. For small tile, it’s just a matter of spreading grout over the whole thing, making sure to push it into all of the little cracks. For larger tile, there’s no need to make such a mess. I do one swipe across the grout line…And one swipe with the grout line…To make sure I’ve gotten the whole crack filled. My rule of thumb is to let it sit for, oh, 1. After the first wipe– where you should remove most excess grout– let it sit another 3. Step 5: Clean Up Then you need to go over everything with a dry cloth to remove any excess grout haze. You can do this an hour or so after the final wet wipe, or the next day if, like me, you tile after midnight and at some point need to get some sleep. Also, note the use of painters tape to keep grout from getting all over my wall. It definitely helps keep the mess in check. Step 6: Seal It Up! The hard work is done, people. Now just a spritz or seven of grout sealer to finish everything up, before you’re ready to stand back and admire. And that’s all there is to it. A little wood, tile, glue, and mud, and you’ve got gorgeous and unique counters for a fraction of the price of other counter materials. Go forth and tile, my DIY friends. If you have any links to great tile counters in your home, make sure to leave a link so we can check it out! How to Lay a Tile Floor. Laying a tile floor is not as hard as you might think and can save the expense of having it professionally installed. To get started you’ll need: Tools: Materials: Tile. Thin- set mortar. Cement backer board. Cement board screws. Grout. Sealer. Measuring Floor. Measure your floor carefully and calculate the number of square feet needed. For square or rectangular rooms, multiply the length of the room by the width, rounding all measurements up to the nearest foot. Divide odd shaped rooms into square or rectangular sections. Calculate the square footage for each section and add them together. Purchasing Tile. Tile comes in a wide variety of sizes, styles, and colors. Keep these points in mind when deciding on your tile: If this is your first tile project, keep the layout and pattern simple. Large tiles work well in a big area but can dominate smaller rooms. Consider tiles with a rough or textured finish, since glossy surfaces can be slippery when wet. Buy 1. 0% – 1. 5% more tile than needed to account for breakage, mistakes, and future replacement. Scraping old adhesive off floor. Surface Preparation. Start by removing the existing flooring. Scrape off any residual adhesives or mortar, and clean the floor thoroughly. Check to see that the subfloor is flat and level. Fill any low spots and cracks in a concrete subfloor with concrete patching compound. For wood framing, make sure the subfloor is dry, rigid, and securely attached to the joists. Never apply tile directly to plywood or a wood subfloor. Instead, cover the subfloor with cement backer board, using corrosion resistant screws that are countersunk flush with the surface of the backer board. Screwing down cement backer board to a plywood subfloor. Trim the bottom of the door jambs so the tile will fit under them using either a handsaw or jamb saw (available to rent at tool rental centers). Using a jamb saw to trim the bottom of door casings so tile can fit under it. Layout. Consider how the tile can best be laid out to maximize aesthetic appeal and minimize cutting. The tile can either be centered on the floor, or full tiles can be used along the most visible walls. When laying out the floor: Mixing up thin- set adhesive. Check square: Measure the length of each wall, and the diagonals from corner to corner. The room is square if opposite walls are the same length and the diagonals match. Establish Guidelines: Pop chalk lines on the floor parallel to the walls to act as guides for laying the tile. Laying Tile. Mix up thin- set mortar in a 5- gallon bucket using a mixing paddle chucked into a low speed drill. Follow the instructions, being sure to use the correct ratio of water to mortar mix. Make up only as much mortar mix as can be worked in 1. Keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge handy to wipe off any excess before it sets and to clean tools. Use a notched trowel to spread the mortar evenly on a small area where you will start laying the tile. Position the tile in the mortar along the guidelines and press into place. Spread thin- set adhesive, then set tile in adhesive. Following the guidelines, position the next tile, using plastic spacers to keep the joints uniform. Use plastic spacers to align the joints in tile. Check the alignment of the tiles as you go along to be sure they are both level and straight. Level tile, then align edges of tile. When laying tile, work from the subfloor to avoid putting weight on the new tile, and allow it to set for 2. Work backward toward a doorway to keep from working yourself into a corner. Measuring for border tile. Cutting Tile. Once the full tiles are laid and safe to walk on, the next step is to cut and fit the partial border tile along the walls. To do this, measure the distance to the wall, minus the width of the grout line, and mark each tile. A scoring cutter can be used to make straight cuts that extend all the way across a tile. Another option for cutting tile is a wet saw equipped with a diamond tipped blade, which can make both through and partial straight cuts. Both types of tile cutting tools can be rented at tool rental outlets. Be sure to wear eye and ear protection when working with power tools. Scoring cutter | Wet saw. Tile nippers can be used to make curved cuts by breaking small amounts off at a time. You can also make several parallel cuts with a wet saw, then break off the excess and fine- tune the cut with nippers. Tile nippers are used to break off small amounts of tile. A handheld grinder with a diamond blade can also make curved cuts. Using a dry grinder on tile produces a lot of dust, so work outside or in a well ventilated area and wear a mask or respirator. A small, handheld wet saw also works well and doesn’t generate dust. Shaping curves with a grinder | Portable wet saw makes curved cuts. Once the border tiles have been cut to size, apply thin- set to the subfloor. A small, notched margin trowel comes in handy when working in tight places. Finishing Wall Edges. When fitting border tile next to a wall, leave a small gap that is covered with baseboard or quarter round molding. Another option is to install tile 4” up the wall using thin- set or construction adhesive. Be sure to line up the joints in the baseboard tile with the floor for a continuous look. Applying tile to a wall to serve as a baseboard. Applying Grout. After the tiles are laid and the mortar has set, the joints are filled with grout. Unsanded grout may be used on joints less than 1/8” while larger joints require sanded grout. Clean the joints to remove any dust and debris before filling. Mix the grout with the recommended amount of water in a 5- gallon bucket using a mixing paddle and power drill. Allow it to sit for 5- 1. Apply the grout with a rubber float, dragging it across joints at a 4. Applying grout to joints in tile. Allow the grout to set up for a few minutes, then wipe off any excess using a sponge and bucket of clean water, working at an angle to the tiles. Wring the sponge out frequently and keep the water clean. Using a damp sponge to remove excess grout from tile. Sealing Grout. Once the grout has hardened for the recommended time, apply sealer to the joints using an applicator bottle or foam brush. Appling sealer to grout lines in tile. Further Information.
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